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Historic Site Ranches
Undaunted
Stewardship® helps preserve important historic
sites on privately owned rangeland. So far, the owners of 10 ranches along
Montana’s Lewis & Clark Trail have signed formal “Historic Site Preservation
Agreements” with the Undaunted Stewardship®
program. Similar to conservation easements, these agreements ensure that the
historic sites will remain unchanged. The agreements also allow Undaunted
Stewardship® to develop free historical exhibits
at the sites so that the public can visit and learn from them.
Like all the other ranches that participate in Undaunted Stewardship®,
the Historic Site Preservation Ranches have each been certified as an
“Undaunted Land Steward.” This means that the ranches follow written grazing
management plans that are designed to ensure the long-term, naturally
sustained productivity of their rangelands, including fish and wildlife
habitat and populations. The ranches also employ site-specific monitoring
programs to ensure that these grazing management plans are succeeding, and
to direct any needed changes.

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1. Wortman Ranch, Big Sandy, MT -
Lewis and Clark Campsite, home to the Blackfeet Treaty of 1855 - The
Corps of Discovery awakened to stampeding buffalo the night they camped
here. On May 28, 1805, Lewis wrote that his dog, Seaman, saved their
lives. A reported 2,000 tipis and 15,000 Indians assembled here twice in
the following 50 years, to negotiate treaties that transformed relations
between the Blackfeet, Flathead, and Gros Ventres tribes, and between
the tribes and the U.S. government. Several frontier-era forts and
trading posts also were located here. The ranch operates a General
Mercantile at Judith Landing. Take
Judith Landing Road from Big Sandy 40 miles to the parking area by the
Missouri River. Riverfront trail by the boat ramp leads to the exhibit
area.
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2. Lanning-Terry Ranch, Big Sandy, MT - White
Cliffs, Pilot Rock - Here, floaters on the Missouri River catch their
first sight of the White Cliffs area that inspired Meriwether Lewis to
write about “scenes of visionary enchantment.” The ranch house stands
next to Pilot Rock, which steamboat captains depended on as one of their
landmarks along the river. This ranch is still managed by members of the
same family that homesteaded the land over 100 years ago. They also
operate a riverfront horse-riding business that stops in historic areas
and combines trips with a separate river-floating company. Located five
miles upstream from the Bureau of Land Management’s Lewis and Clark Eagle Creek
Campground, the interpretive display is accessible only to floaters
through the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument. The pull-out
is on the north side of the river.
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3. Prairie White Cliffs, Loma, MT - White Cliffs
- Three miles of the Missouri’s famous White Cliffs lie within this
ranch. High above the river, trained dogs help herd and guard sheep on
the prairie. Accessible only to river floaters, the pullout is located
on the south side of the river, downstream and opposite to Lewis and
Clark Eagle Creek Campground.
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4. ABN Ranch,
Ft. Benton, MT -
Coal Banks & Thompson Homestead - As area homesteads failed in the
1890s, one pioneer family survived, and today remains on the land
producing wheat, barley, and cattle. On the south side of the river
downstream from Coal Banks Landing, the ABN Ranch features an historic
homestead, “coal banks” geology, and natural rangelands as well as
farming. A small sign alerts floaters to the interpretive display, which
is accessible only to floaters through the Missouri River Breaks
National Monument. Pull-out and dock areas are on the south side of the
river.
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5. Ayshire Dairy Farm,
Great Falls, MT - Upper Portage & White Bear Island Overlook - The
Lewis and Clark Expedition spent a momentous month here in the summer of
1805, completing the portage at Great Falls, assembling Lewis’s famed,
failed iron boat, and preparing to cross the Rocky Mountains. They
fought off grizzly bears, hunted bison, and carried supplies naked
through brutal hail storms, wrongly expecting that a quick route to the
Pacific Ocean lay just a few ridges away. On July 4th, they
celebrated the nation’s 29th birthday with the last of their
grog. Located about eight minutes from Great Falls, the site is on the
south side of 40th Street, about 200 yards from 13th
street.
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6. Sieben Ranch and Hilger Hereford Ranch,
Wolf Creek, MT - The "Gates of the Mountains" - Meriwether Lewis
named the Gates of the Rocky Mountains on July 19, 1805. Once grazed by
roaming dinosaurs, and containing part of the north-south “Old North
Trail” walked by humans more than 8,000 years ago, these ranches played
a central role in the origins of agriculture in Montana, and continued
to help define contemporary ranching. Located about 17 minutes
north of Helena. The exhibit area is off I-15 at
the Gates of the Mountains exit # 209 on the road leading to the boat docks at Holter Lake.
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7. Beaverhead Gateway Ranch,
Dillon, MT -
Beaverhead Rock - When she saw Beaverhead Rock on August 7, 1805,
Sacajawea knew she was back in her homeland. This brought long-awaited
relief to captains Lewis and Clark because it meant they would soon meet
Sacagawea’s tribe, the Shoshone, who could supply horses so the party
could try to beat winter across the Rockies. For two decades of the late
1800s, virtually everyone traveling between Helena and the state’s
territorial capitals, Bannack and Virginia City, passed by the point of
Rocks Hotel and Stage Station that operated here. The display area is
just south of Beaverhead Rock, on the west side of State Highway 141,
about 15 miles north of Dillon.
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8. Hamilton Ranch,
Twin Bridges, MT - Big Hole Pass, Clark Camp - Down the road from
Montana’s first Territorial Capital, Bannack, these landscapes still
look as they did when Lewis and Clark walked through the area, replete
with the same blue camas plants whose roots the explorers ate to
survive. It was near here that the Corps of Discovery met up with the
Shoshone, Sacagawea’s tribe. The “extremely fertile vally” Clark
described became the original heartland of Montana ranching, initially
sparked by the first gold discovery in 1862, less than 20 miles
away. The display area is north of the crest of Big Hole Pass (Carroll
Hill) on the west side of Highway 278.
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9. Mission Ranch, Livingston, MT - Fort Parker,
Original Crow Agency - Captain Clark and his group camped directly on
the opposite side of the Yellowstone River on July 15, 1806, during
their return trip to St. Louis. The ranch later became the site of Fort
Parker, where the U.S. government based the first Crow Agency and sought
unsuccessfully to convert the nomadic Crow tribe to an agricultural
lifestyle. The Fort was a “Who’s Who” stopping-point for explorers and
early settlers throughout the frontier era, including those whose
travels helped persuade Congress to create nearby Yellowstone National
Park in 1872. The display area is about 10 miles east of Livingston, off
the Mission Creek exit and about 150 yards south on a county road.
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10. Prairie County Grazing District, Terry, MT -
Clark Camp across Yellowstone, July 30, 1806 - This area is steeped in
history including the “Old West” Calypso Trail, the natural arches and
other wonders of the Terry Badlands Wilderness Study Area, 1806 campsite
of Captain Clark and the 1876 site where General Custer’s 7th
Cavalry camped before confronting Sitting Bull at the Battle of the
Little Bighorn. From Interstate 94, take exit #169 and go one-half mile
north to Highway 10; turn east and find the exhibits after 0.3 miles, on
the north side of the road. The exhibit, surrounding six old graves, is seven
miles west of Terry on the Frontage Road (Highway 10).
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***Undaunted Stewardship also has an interpretive
display in Fort Benton (star with no number on map above) at the BLM
Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument Interpretive Center. In
the 25 years following the first gold discoveries in western Montana,
before railroads arrived in 1887, hundreds of steamboats brought hoards
of wealth-seekers and their supplies from St. Louis to Fort Benton.
Most of the boats eventually sank or were destroyed in the turbulent,
hazard-filled waters. One world traveler of the era called the trip
against the current of Missouri more frightening than sailing the high
steams during a wild storm. |
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